The Evolution of Elegance: Late 17th Century Fashion
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The Evolution of Elegance: Late 17th Century Fashion
The late 17th century, a period encompassing the latter half of the 1600s, witnessed a fascinating transformation in European fashion, transitioning from the opulent and extravagant styles of the Renaissance to a more refined and restrained aesthetic. This era, marked by political and social upheaval, saw fashion becoming a powerful tool of self-expression, social status, and national identity.
A Shift in Silhouette: The Rise of the "Grand Manner"
The late 17th century witnessed a distinct shift in the prevailing silhouette. The exaggerated, voluminous forms of the Renaissance gave way to a more streamlined and elegant "Grand Manner." This new aesthetic, championed by the French court of Louis XIV, emphasized a slender, elongated figure with a focus on vertical lines.
Women’s Fashion: A Symphony of Layers and Ornamentation
Women’s fashion in the late 17th century was characterized by a layered approach. The foundational garment was the corset, a tightly laced undergarment that cinched the waist and created a dramatic hourglass figure. Over the corset, women wore a stays, a rigid, boned garment that provided structure and support to the torso.
The gown was the centerpiece of the ensemble. It was typically made of luxurious fabrics like silk, velvet, or brocade, and featured a fitted bodice, a full skirt, and a train. The bodice was often adorned with elaborate embroidery, lace, and jewels, while the skirt could be further embellished with ruffles, flounces, and panniers.
The Importance of Accessories
Accessories played a crucial role in completing the feminine look. Lace collars and ruffs were popular neck adornments, while sleeves were often puffed and adorned with lace or ribbons. Gloves were considered essential for both practicality and fashion, and were often made of fine leather or silk.
Men’s Fashion: A Reflection of Power and Status
Men’s fashion in the late 17th century was equally elaborate and symbolic. The coat became the defining garment, replacing the doublet and hose of earlier periods. Coats were typically made of wool, velvet, or silk, and featured long, flowing tails. They were often adorned with elaborate buttons, embroidery, and lace.
The "Justacorps"
A popular style of coat was the justacorps, a close-fitting, knee-length garment that was often worn with breeches. The justacorps was typically made of a rich fabric like velvet or brocade and featured a decorative collar, cuffs, and pockets.
The Significance of the "Wig"
The wig became an essential part of the male wardrobe. Wigs were made from human hair, often sourced from France, and were styled in a variety of ways. The most popular style was the peruke, a long, flowing wig that reached the shoulders. Wigs were a symbol of status and sophistication, and were worn by men of all social classes.
The Influence of the French Court
The French court of Louis XIV exerted a significant influence on fashion throughout Europe. Louis XIV was a fashion icon, and his court was known for its extravagance and elegance. He established strict dress codes for his courtiers, which dictated everything from the color of their clothing to the style of their wigs.
The Role of Fashion in Social Hierarchy
Fashion in the late 17th century was a powerful tool for conveying social status. The materials used, the quality of construction, and the complexity of the design all played a role in signaling a person’s wealth and standing. The more elaborate and expensive the attire, the higher the social rank.
The Impact of Trade and Exploration
The expansion of trade and exploration during this period also had a significant impact on fashion. New fabrics, such as cotton and silk, were introduced from the East, while the discovery of new dyes and printing techniques led to a greater variety of colors and patterns.
A Time of Transition and Innovation
The late 17th century was a time of great transition in fashion. The old, more cumbersome styles of the Renaissance were giving way to a new, more elegant aesthetic. This shift was driven by a number of factors, including the rise of the French court, the expansion of trade, and a growing emphasis on individual expression.
FAQs on Late 17th Century Fashion
1. What were the most common fabrics used in late 17th century fashion?
Silk, velvet, brocade, wool, and linen were the most common fabrics. Silk was particularly prized for its luxurious feel and appearance, and was often used for gowns, coats, and accessories.
2. What were the main features of women’s fashion in the late 17th century?
Women’s fashion was characterized by layers, with a corset, stays, and a gown as the foundation. The gowns were typically fitted at the bodice and full at the skirt, often adorned with lace, embroidery, and jewels.
3. What were the main features of men’s fashion in the late 17th century?
Men’s fashion was characterized by the coat, which replaced the doublet and hose of earlier periods. Coats were typically long, flowing, and adorned with elaborate buttons, embroidery, and lace. The wig was another essential element of men’s fashion, and was a symbol of status and sophistication.
4. How did fashion reflect social status in the late 17th century?
The materials used, the quality of construction, and the complexity of the design all played a role in signaling a person’s wealth and standing. The more elaborate and expensive the attire, the higher the social rank.
5. What was the influence of the French court on late 17th century fashion?
The French court of Louis XIV exerted a significant influence on fashion throughout Europe. Louis XIV was a fashion icon, and his court was known for its extravagance and elegance. He established strict dress codes for his courtiers, which dictated everything from the color of their clothing to the style of their wigs.
Tips for Understanding Late 17th Century Fashion
- Pay attention to the silhouette: The late 17th century was a time of transition, with the silhouette shifting from the voluminous forms of the Renaissance to a more streamlined and elegant aesthetic.
- Consider the role of accessories: Accessories played a crucial role in completing the look, and were often used to convey social status and personal style.
- Examine the fabrics: The materials used in late 17th century fashion were often luxurious and expensive, and reflected the wealth and status of the wearer.
- Look for historical portraits and paintings: These provide valuable insights into the styles and trends of the period.
- Read historical accounts and fashion journals: These offer firsthand accounts of the fashion trends of the time.
Conclusion
The late 17th century witnessed a significant shift in European fashion, moving away from the flamboyant styles of the Renaissance and embracing a more refined and elegant aesthetic. The "Grand Manner" emerged, emphasizing a slender, elongated figure and a focus on vertical lines. This period saw fashion becoming a powerful tool of self-expression, social status, and national identity, with elaborate garments and accessories playing a crucial role in conveying social hierarchy and personal style. The influence of the French court, the expansion of trade, and the introduction of new materials all contributed to the evolution of fashion during this transformative era.
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